Sunday 31 January 2016

Guide blade upgrade kit for vintage Scalextric C74 and C75

Guide blade Scalextric C74 and C75

This guide blade upgrade kit is a direct replacement for the original Scalextric G5 guide pin fitted to the cars listed below. The kit comes complete with:
  • Guide blade G30
  • Braids (fitted)
  • Braid pins (fitted)
  • Wires (fitted)
  • Motor electrical tags (fitted)
  • Guide adaptor bracket
The original guide pin fitted to these Scalextric cars cannot readily be used on modern track with crossovers, points etc. as the pin is small and the car can change lanes when traversing a crossover! This kit uses a later Scalextric guide blade which is needed to maintain the right direction of travel on modern track obstacles.
No soldering is required as this kit simply fits into place with only basic tools. The original car body and motor are used with no changes at all, which means the original guide pin can be refitted at any time to return your Scalextric car to it’s original condition.
With this kit you can enjoy your original Scalextric Austin Healey 3000 and Scalextric Mercedes 190SL models on later Scalextric Classic track and even new Scalextric Sort track layouts.
The original guide pin is sometimes referred to as G5.
Another great solution from Scalextric Car Restorations

Light bulbs for vintage Scalextric cars E1, E2, E3, E4 and E5

Replacement light bulbs for head lights and tail lights for vintage Scalextric cars.
Scalextric bulbs
These vintage Scalextric light bulbs are NEW and are replacements for those fitted to the cars listed below. The bulbs are 10mm (approx. 7/16″) long with a 5mm (approx. 7/32″) diameter and the two leads are 21mm (approx. 13/16″) long. The grommets have an internal hole diameter of 5mm (approx. 7/32″), fit a panel thickness of 1.7mm (approx. 1/16″) and a panel fixing hole diameter of 7.2mm (approx. 9/32″).
This vintage Scalextric light bulb kit can be fitted to the C56, C57, C68 and C69 cars that came without lights.
The set contains:
  • 3 bulbs
  • 3 fixing grommets
The bulbs are available in standard and high brightness versions.
Please note that there are 3 bulbs in each car, one for each headlight and one for both rear lights.
Service sheets are available that show how these bulbs are fitted and connected
More great spares from Scalextric Car Restorations

Scalextric slot car parts Neodymium magnatraction magnet kit

Transform your slot car’s performance with these upgraded Neodymium magnatraction magnets.  Improved track performance with minimal effort.
Scalextric magnets
These Scalextric spares Neodymium Iron Boron magnets have a gauss level which is typically 2 – 4 times higher than standard Alnico magnets. They are nickel-plated for improved corrosion resistance and appearance.
They are suitable for all slot cars; Artin, Ninco, SCX, Scalextric, SCX Scalextric, Tri-ang and many more.
This kit is great if you are not sure which Scalextric spares magnets would be best suited for your car. This kit contains:
Quantity
Description
2
Bar magnet 12mm x 6mm x 1.5mm (1/2″ x 1/4″ x 1/16″ approx.)
2
Bar magnet 25mm x 6mm x 1.5mm (1″ x 1/4″ x 1/16″ approx.)
1
Bar magnet 25mm x 6mm x 3mm (1/2″ x 1/4″ x 1/8″ approx.)
2
Button magnet 8mm x 3mm (1/4″ x 1/8″ approx.)
2
Button magnet 8mm x 5mm (1/4″ x 3/16″ approx.)
1
Button magnet 10mm x 5mm (3/8″ x 3/16″ approx.)

Please see our Neodymium Magnet Safety Page for further information.
Our unique Magnet Downforce Calculator gives the magnetic attraction force for this magnet at given distances from the track. Ideal for locating the magnet.
A great selection from Scalextric Car Restorations

Saturday 30 January 2016

Complete 24 piece slot car chassis kit

Complete plastic moulded adjustable 24 piece slot car chassis kit with Neodymium magnet.
Slot car chassis kit
This complete plastic moulded slot car chassis kit is ideal for many of the 1:32 scale resin and plastic slot car body kits available. This chassis kit comes complete with:
  • Rear chassis piece
  • Front chassis piece
  • 2 off stainless steel screws
  • 2 off stainless steel plain washers
  • 2 off stainless steel Nyloc nuts
  • 2 off front axle spacers
  • 2 off 60mm stainless steel axles
  • Contrate gear in black
  • Mabuchi S can motor with wires and guide assembly
  • Motor pinion gear – 9z in white
  • 4 off wheels (optional)
  • 4 off MAX Grip tyres (optional)
  • Neodymium magnet (optional)
Dimensions:
  • Overall width 33mm
  • Height (without motor, axle and guide) 12mm
  • Overall length (minimum) 92mm
  • Overall length (maximum) 112mm
  • Minimum wheelbase 64mm
  • Maximum wheelbase 84mm
  • Small tyre – 17.0 mm outside diameter
  • Medium tyre – 20.0 mm outside diameter
  • Large tyre – 22.5 mm outside diameter
The slot car body is secured to this slot car chassis with 2 fixing points at the rear behind the rear axle and by 1 fixing point behind the front axle. This is the standard form factor for the resin and plastic body kits readily available.
Another great item from Scalextric Car Restorations

Now available – pick up braids for new Scalextric Drift cars

The newer range of Scalextric drift cars use larger than normal guide blade that rotate through 360 degrees allowing the Scalextric car to rotate on the track also through 360 degrees.  This adds a great extra dimension to racing Scalextric cars.
Scalextric drift car braids
In order to do this the Drift Scalextric cars use a unique and larger than normal guide blade which is fitted with longer than normal pick-up braids.  The pick-up braids and the woven metal wire that actually make electrical contact with the metal track conducting strips.
These pick-up braids for the Drift Scalextric cars are 42mm long and are not available from Scalextric as a spare part.  The standard shorter braids are but not the longer Drift car braids.
Scalextric Car Restorations have re-manufactured the 42mm long Scalextric Drift car braids allowing for a low cost solution to worn out pick-up braids.  Why Scalextric themselves haven’t done this, well, who knows.
Another great solution from Scalextric Car Restorations.

How to make a slot car chassis

Make your own slot car chassis with this simple design process

Abstract

There are many slot car body kits available today providing the slot car enthusiast with many options to make their own functioning slot car (Scalextric car). Some of the body kits are finely modeled while some are more basic but all of them need a chassis in order to be completed and run on the slot car track. This article explains the making of just such a chassis.
Slot car chassis kit

Introduction

There are a myriad of small and large scale suppliers of 1:32 scale slot car body kits out there all making resin based slot car kits, most include the windows and the interior. The very best include all the trim parts in metal too, laser cut this and metal cast that. So, the whole range is out there somewhere. The problem has always been about the modeling skills to assemble these kits and then to track down a 1:32 scale slot car chassis, wheels and tyres so you can race your wonderful model. So here you are, all the information needed to make your own slot car chassis.

Making the basic form

The important aspects of a slot car chassis are:
  • Mounting of the rear axle
  • Mounting of the front axle
  • Mounting of the motor
  • Mounting of the guide blade
  • Fitting to the slot car body
  • Mounting of a Neodymium magnet for Magnatraction (if needed)
So, not too much to take into account then… It must be remembered that the gears have to be accurately aligned and the axles have to provide the right ride height for the selected wheels, tyres and slot car model. To produce our chassis we selected 2mm plasticard as a starting point. This will give good thick and strong sections, is workable and can be joined easily with superglue.
We also decided to use all Scalextric parts and standards. That’s the following parts and standards:
  • Axle diameter
  • Motor (Mabuchi S can with brush end drive)
  • Motor pinion gear
  • Rear axle contrate gear
  • Guide blade, pins and wires
  • Wheels
  • Tyres
This was done simply to minimise design effort and to allow the slot car modeler to use parts that are in plentiful supply. Therefore, someone with an existing Scalextric car could use all the parts they had to make the chassis functional. The next problem to overcome was the risk of the rear axle coming lose from the chassis.
This chassis is to use plain holes for both the front and rear axles to give the chassis good strength. Scalextric and other slot cars use an open clip arrangement for the rear axle bearings which can “unclip” in use. Scalextric get round this by adding extensions to the interior of the car which hold the rear axle bearings into place.
With resin slot car kits these extensions are not present so the standard Scalextric solution is not robust. As a result we took the solution to use plain holes which cannot fail in this way. This was especially important as we were adding a Neodymium magnet for magnatraction to our slot car chassis.
Slot car chassis kit
The image above shows the basic form of the chassis taking place. We started with the motor mounting and the related rear axle position. Here you can see the start of the motor mounts the rear axle bearings and the cut out for the contrate gear as well as the chassis side supports.
Slot car chassis kit
At his point we’ve added a little more detailing to the rear of the slot car chassis and the motor fixing solution. We’ve added the basics of the front end too. The guide blade mounting is in position as are the front axle bearings. In this image you can also see the motor in position and the body mounting solution is in place and being tuned.
Slot car chassis kit
This image shows the chassis with the first trail of the selected wheels and tyres. In the first instance there will be two wheel options, one road type and one Minilight type (the road wheel is on the rear and the Minilight wheel is on the front). The wheels have the same form factor and so can use the same range of Max Grip tyres. The picture above shows the largest and smallest tyres suitable for these wheels.
Slot car chassis kit
This picture shows the chassis fully assembled and a little more refined. The guide mount has been tidied up as has the side sections. You can clearly see the motor is mounted at a slight downward angle too. This allows the rear axle to be mounted lower which, in turn, allows smaller diameter wheels and tyres to be used. The original concept was to allow the Scalextric small Superslix wheels and tyres to be used if desired.
Slot car chassis kit
Above you can see the underside of the fully assembled chassis. This image shows the motor and rear axle arrangement as well as the guide and body fixing solution. This chassis will be secured to the slot car body by means of 3 self taping screws, 2 at the rear and one at the front. As this chassis is intended to run close to the track surface the screw heads are sunk into the chassis surface.

Making the chassis adjustable

At this stage we have the basic form of the slot car chassis with a fixed wheelbase of 75mm. This is of little use unless your slot car body has the same wheelbase. So, there’s only one solution, make the slot car chassis wheelbase adjustable.
Slot car chassis kit
And now the scary bit. Clearly, all cars as well as their slot car clones have different wheelbases. That’s the distance between the front and rear wheels. So, any universal slot car chassis must be adjustable for wheelbase. This means cutting the chassis into two pieces and providing a means to allow the wheelbase to be adjusted and set. This image shows the front and rear chassis pieces as well as the start of the sliding mechanism.
Slot car chassis kit
In order to manufacture this slot car chassis in volume we needed to provide it with a consistent surface finish. Some parts were glossy plasticard surface, some parts were superglue finish and much was a sanded or filed finish. Also, there were minor surface imperfections due to the amount of machining carried out to make these master parts. To remove the minor surface imperfections we spray painted the slot car chassis in primer and sanded it back. We repeated this process until the surface imperfection were cleared away. Here you can see the two master chassis pieces prepared and ready to the make the mould as well as the master wheel models and the selected fixing screws, washers and Nyloc nuts.

Into production

Making one chassis is good but the plan is to make lot’s of chassis kits for the slot car makers out there. Therefore, the master two slot car chassis pieces have to be copied many times over. We use a low volume moulding method make copies of the original parts to go into the slot car chassis kits.
Slot car chassis kit
Above is the complete slot car chassis kit. This plastic moulded slot car chassis kit is ideal for many of the 1:32 scale resin and plastic slot car body kits available. The kit comes complete with:
  • Rear chassis piece
  • Front chassis piece
  • 2 off stainless steel screws
  • 2 off stainless steel plain washers
  • 2 of stainless steel Nyloc nuts
  • 2 off front axle spacers
  • Neodymium magnet (optional)
Dimensions:
  • Overall width 33mm
  • Height (without motor, axle and guide) 12mm
  • Overall length (minimum) 92mm
  • Overall length (maximum) 112mm
  • Minimum wheelbase 64mm
  • Maximum wheelbase 84mm
  • Recommended minimum tyre outside diameter 16mm (small superslix tyres)
This chassis is designed to use the following standard Scalextric parts:
  • Mabuchi S can motor
  • Rear axle (black or yellow contrate gear) 3/32″ diameter
  • 9z motor pinion gear
  • Front axle 3/32″ diameter
  • Guide blade, pins and wires
  • Wheels
  • Tyres
The slot car body is secured to this slot car chassis with 2 fixing points at the rear behind the rear axle and by 1 fixing point behind the front axle. This is the standard form factor for the resin and plastic body kits readily available.

About the author:

Gary Harding has been working with Scalextric cars for over 35 years and now operates Scalextric Car Restorations in the UK. Scalextric Car Restorations is a Worldwide internet based business that offers for sale high quality Scalextric cars and Scalextric parts from the 1960s to the present day. All the restoration work is carried out to the highest standards with the highest quality parts available. Only the best cars are selected and the final result is a car that is genuinely like new.
Further help and advice relating to this article or Scalextric cars in general can be found at:
http://www.scalextric-car.co.uk

Friday 29 January 2016

Announcing the 11 piece slot car chassis kit

Scalextric Car Restorations is proud to annouce the manufacture of a plastic moulded adjustable 11 piece slot car chassis kit with Neodymium magnet.  This plastic moulded slot car kit is ideal for many of the 1:32 scale resin and plastic slot car body kits available.
Slot car chassis
The kit comes complete with:
  • Rear chassis piece
  • Front chassis piece
  • 2 off stainless steel screws
  • 2 off stainless steel plain washers
  • 2 of stainless steel Nyloc nuts
  • 2 off front axle spacers
  • Neodymium magnet (optional)
Dimensions:
  • Overall width 33mm
  • Height (without motor, axle and guide) 12mm
  • Overall length (minimum) 92mm
  • Overall length (maximum) 112mm
  • Minimum wheelbase 64mm
  • Maximum wheelbase 84mm
  • Recommended minimum tyre outside diameter 16mm (small superslix tyres)
This chassis is designed to use the following standard Scalextric parts:
  • Mabuchi S can motor
  • Rear axle (black or yellow contrate gear) 3/32″ diameter
  • 9z motor pinion gear
  • Front axle 3/32″ diameter
  • Guide blade, pins and wires
  • Wheels
  • Tyres
The slot car body is secured to this slot car chassis with 2 fixing points at the rear behind the rear axle and by 1 fixing point behind the front axle. This is the standard form factor for the resin and plastic body kits readily available.
Another great product from Scalextric Car Restorations

Scalextric tyres

Finding the right tyres for your old Scalextric cars can be difficult.  There are over 130 tyre types to choose from and they all seem to be black and round.  So, pictures are of no use what-so-ever.
Scalextric tyres
At best it is difficult to be sure which Scalextric car you even have.  So, there you are Scalextric car in one hand and old worn out and hardened tyres in the other.  It’s simple, all you want is new tyres for your old Scalextric car.  How hard can it be?
Scalextric Car Restorations have developed a very simple to use Scalextric car tyre finder.  There’s a search and browse tool allowing you to enter the information you do know, it’s a Mini, etc.  You are then presented with a list of possible matches and each is given with a picture.  Now simply match your car by its picture.  How easy could that be?
Then, the very best bit.  Spot your car by its picture and then the tool tells you which tyres your car is fitted with.  Finding tyres for your classic Scalextric car could not be any easier.
Another great solution from Scalextric Car Restorations

Web based on-line library of Scalextric cars 1960 to 2015

Identifying your old Scalextric car is essential if you want to find the right replacement parts.  Scalextric Car Restorations has resolved this problem by developing an on-line searchable library of Scalextric cars.  This web based online library of Scalextric cars covers all the cars made from 1960 to 2015 and contains the details of 1682 distinct Scalextric cars.
Scalextric car
You can search the library by entering text into a search window and the matched cars are listed in the search results.  You can simply browse the library too by incrementing through the C number reference of the cars.
Each car is presented with its picture, its C number, its description, the years for which it was produced and any special features e.g. headlights, magnatraction etc.
This is the most powerful listing of Scalextric cars produced on the web.  So, next time you need to identify your Scalextric car, go to the web based online Scalextric car library at Scalextric Car Restorations.
Another great solution produced by Scalextric Car Restorations.

Thursday 28 January 2016

More power from a Scalextric RX motor

Introduction:
The earlier Scalextric cars produced in the 1960s were fitted with open frame motors the most common of which is known as the RX motor. This motor was also fitted to many of the Hornby locomotives of the period. This article shows how to produce more torque and more RPM from an RX motor.
Scalextric RX motor
There are 3 main factors involved in improving the performance of a Scalextric RX motor.  These are:
  • Electrical
  • Magnetic
  • Mechanical
Electrical:
For electrical the first place to start is to clean all the electrical connections from the track braids to the motor brushes.  An alternative is to use a flexible silicon wire and make a new connection from each track braid to the motor brushes directly.  This removes almost all of the electrical connections.  More radically the motor armature wire can be replaced to give a higher electrical current.
More current gives more torque.
Magnetic:
Magnetically there’s a couple of solutions available.  Re-magnetise the existing magnet to get it the best it can be or simply replace the magnet with a Neodymium magnet.  This will give 2-3 times the magnetic field strength of the original magnet.
More magnetic field strength gives more torque.
Mechanical:
Mechanically it’s all about reducing friction that opposes the rotation of the armature.  With the motor brushes removed the armature should spin very freely in its bearings.  The bearings should be in good alignment and offer very little resistance.  The tension on the motor brushes can have a big effect too.  Reduce the spring tension and the Scalextric RX motor produces more torque and more RPM.
Less friction gives more torque.
About the author:
Gary Harding has been working with Scalextric cars for over 35 years and now operates Scalextric Car Restorations in the UK. Scalextric Car Restorations is a Worldwide internet based business that offers for sale high quality Scalextric cars and Scalextric parts from the 1960s to the present day. All the restoration work is carried out to the highest standards with the highest quality parts available. Only the best cars are selected and the final result is a car that is genuinely like new.
Further help and advice relating to this article or Scalextric cars in general can be found at:
http://www.scalextric-car.co.uk

Scalextric motor pinion gear – 9z

Many of the Scalextric cars produced from the 1970s use a small white gear (pinion gear) on the motor to drive the rear axle.  It is very common for this gear to crack and become loose on the motor.  In extreme cases the gear can beak in two places and fall off the motor shaft completely.
Scalextric gear
The initial symptoms will be a clicking sound as the car drives along the track.  When the rear wheels are turned manually a tight spot will be felt.  If used like this for long then damage may result in the rear axle gear too.
There’s only one solution and that’s to replace the motor pinion gear with a new one.  The replacement parts have an improved design with a collar around the gear to give increased strength.  Fitting instructions are available for this gear too.

Another solution from Scalextric Car Restorations

Making Scalextric cars realistic with lights

Abstract
Scalextric (in one form or other) have been producing Scalextric cars since the late 1950s and over this time several different methods have been used to provide their models with lights.  Head lights, tail lights, brake lights, Turbo Flash, lights for Marshal’s cars and roof lights for Police cars.
This article gives a potted history of the lighting methods used throughout the years.
Introduction
Scalextric realised long ago that their Scalextric cars can look more realistic if the cars were fitted with lights, both headlights and rear tail lights.  The methods used by Scalextric very much follow the technologies available at the time; bulbs, LEDs and electronics have all played their role as time has passed.
Scalextric cars
Bulbs
The first Scalextric cars to be fitted with lights were the E range of cars (E1 to E5) produced from 1962.  These used one small bulb for each headlight and one small bulb to illuminate the rear tail lights.
Bulbs were also used for the Marshal’s car, Aston Martin DB4 (E5) which remained permanently illuminated just like a headlight.  The Rover 3500 range of Police cars were fitted with flashing roof lights which used electrics to switch the bulb on and off.  Quite realistic too.
Bulbs were used right up to the introduction of LEDs in the early 2000s as this was the only sensible way to produce white light.  In the mid 1990s some cost cutting starts to kick in and a change takes place to the method of providing the lights.  The new system has one bulb located in the chassis towards the centre of the car and light guides illuminate the headlights and tail lights.  This solution was both reliable and more readily serviceable too.
LEDs
As time progressed the method of providing lights in Scalextric cars remained unchanged until the introduction of brake lights and Turbo Flash for the Formula 1 models in 1988.  The brake lights and Turbo Flash lights operate in the same way.  A small electric circuit senses that power has been removed from the car (braking) and then switches an internal power store on, thereby providing power to the rear lights.  For brake lights this was 2 red LEDs and for Turbo Flash this was 1 yellow LED.
Several different Scalextric cars during the early 1990s continued to use bulbs for headlights, LED for tail lights and LEDs for brake lights.
The next change was in the early 2000s where Scalextric replaced the bulbs to LEDs front and rear.  Initially the front LEDs were orange which was not too realistic at all and looked terrible.  That was not a good idea.  Soon after the front lights were changed to white LEDs.  So this is where Scalextric are today.  White LEDs for headlights and red LEDs for tail lights.
Once blue LEDs became cost effective in the mid 2000s they were also used in the Police range of Scalextric cars replacing bulbs for the flashing roof lights.
The solution that got away
One lighting solution Scalextric never implemented was to combine the rear LEDs to be both tail lights and brake lighst in one red LED.  Scalextric Car Restorations have achieved this.
While the car is under power on the track each LED emits a moderate brightness red light ideal for the tail lamps of Scalextric cars. When the power is released and the car slows down, both the LEDs become much brighter just like real car brake lights. This is accomplished with a small electronic module that senses when the car is slowing or stopping. The module then significantly increases the brightness of the LEDs for a short period of time.
This LED kit connects to the car with only two wires connected directly to the car motor making the fitting simplicity itself.  The kit is protected against improper electrical fitting.
General
On the whole Scalextric has used lighting to good effect over the years.  They basically did the best they could do with the technologies around them.  The only real flaw was the use of orange LEDs as head lights and the missed opportunity to add combined brake lights and tail lights.
About the author:
Gary Harding has been working with Scalextric cars for over 35 years and now operates Scalextric Car Restorations in the UK. Scalextric Car Restorations is a Worldwide internet based business that offers for sale high quality Scalextric cars and Scalextric parts from the 1960s to the present day. All the restoration work is carried out to the highest standards with the highest quality parts available. Only the best cars are selected and the final result is a car that is genuinely like new.
Further help and advice relating to this article or Scalextric cars in general can be found at:
http://www.scalextric-car.co.uk

Wednesday 27 January 2016

Compatibility between old and new Scalextric cars and Scalextric track

Use your new Scalextric cars on your old Scalextric track and your old Scalextric cars on your new Scalextric track with these simple hints and tips

Abstract

Scalextric (in one form or other) have been producing Scalextric track and Scalextric cars since the late 1950s and over this time several different standards have been used. This is for both the cars and the track. However, some of the basic principles have remained the same. The track has a slot and two conductor rails on each side. The cars use the slot to guide them around the layout and electrical contacts to touch the conductor rails. Finally the system voltage and current requirement are similar too.
This article explains what is compatible from old to new and what is not, and what you can do about it.

Introduction

Over the years the track has a slot that has broadly remained unchanged, the cars have a pin or blade that runs in this slot to guide the car around the track. Each side of the slot there are two electrical conductor rails who’s dimensions have broadly remained unchanged. The Scalextric cars then have 2 contacts, usually made from flat braided wire that touch each conductor to carry the electric current into the car. The nominal electrical voltage has remained at 12 Volts to 14 Volts for both the power systems and the motors in the cars and the current draw has remained similar too.
This article considers the compatibility of cars and track produced from 1960 to the present day (2013).

Scalextric Track

The Scalextric track pieces provide several key requirements:
  • A known surface for the cars to race on.
  • A slot in order to guide the cars around the circuit.
  • A method of supplying electrical current to the motors in the cars.
Mechanically the Scalextric track may appear quite different from old to new and had several different standards over the years. The very first track pieces produced were known as “rubber track” and wasn’t well designed with poor fixings between the track pieces. In 1963 a plastic track was introduced with good positive fixings between the track pieces. This plastic track is now often referred to as the Classic Scalextric track. In 2002 the track design changed to the Scalextric Sport track design which had an improved fixing method between the track pieces. At the time of witting in 2013, this is the current track design.
Classic Scalextric track
Throughout this period the slot in the track and the conductor rails have remained largely unchanged in specification which means the key interface to the Scalextric car has also remained unchanged. One area of difference is that the Classic Scalextric track range offered many track pieces that contained obstacles such as chicanes, hay bails, backed curves and even rocks. None of these are available to the same degree with the Scalextric Sport track system.
Further, the Classic Scalextric track range had a deep graining on the surface giving the car tyres good mechanical grip for cornering and acceleration. With the introduction of Magnatraction the Sport track range didn’t need such heavy graining and so has a much lighter surface graining giving a smoother appearance and feel to the track surface.
  • 1960 to 1962: Rubber track.
  • 1963 to 2001: Classic track.
  • 2002 to present: Sport track.
Classic Scalextric track and Sport Scalextric track use different clipping arrangements to connect together. There is a special piece of converter track that can be used to join together Classic Scalextric tack and Sport Scalextric track.

Scalextric Cars

The Scalextric cars have changed little in their basic layout throughout this time. There is a method at the front of the cars to locate or guide them around the track which is either in the shape of a blade or a pin. The blade guides need to rotate in the underside of the Scalextric car to allow the car to take corners while the pin guides tend to be fixed and not rotate. With pin guides the pin is narrow enough to rotate in the slot itself.
Each side of the guide blade or pin there are two metal conductors, usually in the form of flat woven metal braids. These braids rub along the conductor rails providing the necessary two electrical contacts between the track and the car. The motor is then connected to the braids with short lengths of wire. The motor drives the rear axle via a simple gear mechanism which in turn drives the car forward.
Scalextric Javelin model from 1970
Older Scalextric cars tended to have plenty of up/down movement of their front axles and sometimes the front wheels were no where near the track surface. The front of these cars rests solely on the guide and braids. Later Scalextric cars have removed this movement with most running fixed front axles where the front wheels run on the track surface. This is much more realistic as the front wheels rotate as the car moves along the track layout.
In more recent times Scalextric Digital has been introduced. In Scalextric Digital cars there is a small electric circuit (chip) fitted to the car where power from the track goes into the chip and the output from the chip drives the motor. The chip also drives an LED which points downward and which communicates to track pieces to change lanes.

Electrical

The basic electrical specification has remained unchanged from 1960 to the present. The analogue system voltage is 12 Volts to 14 Volts with a series resistive control method. The electrical current drawn by the motors has reduced over the years with the introduction of more efficient motors.
Scalextric Digital uses a completely different way to control the cars. Constant power is supplied to the whole track layout and the cars are controlled with digital signals that again go around the whole circuit.

Compatibility – old cars on new track

There are several factors concerning the use of old Scalextric cars on new Scalextric track. The first of which relates to the change in the surface grain from Classic to Sport track. The older Scalextric cars without Magnatraction will have little mechanical grip from their rear tyres making acceleration and in particular cornering difficult. This can be overcome by fitting Magnatraction magnets and/or MAX Grip tyres. With some ingenuity magnets can be fitted to all of the older Scalextric cars and MAX Grip tyres are available for all the older Scalextric cars too.
The other difficulty concerns the pin guides. The later track layouts used obstacles such as crossovers and the modern Scalextric Digital layouts use lane change pieces or points in the railway vernacular. Essentially, the pin guide doesn’t provide any directional stability which means as a car with a pin guide passes over a crossover piece of track it stands a good chance of moving to the wrong lane or slot. To use Scalextric cars with pin guides on later layouts either the lane change or crossover pieces of track need to be removed from the layout or the cars can be converted to use guide blades instead of pins.
The older Scalextric motors tend to consume more electrical current than the newer Scalextric cars. As such the newer power supplies associated with newer Scalextric layouts may not provide sufficient current to allow two older Scalextric cars to race at full power.
Non digital Scalextric cars cannot be used on the Scalextric Digital system as the electrical systems are not compatible. NOTE, a traditional analogue Scalextric car may sustain permanent damage if placed onto a live Scalextric Sport track layout.

Compatibility – new cars on old track

On the whole it is easier to operate new Scalextric cars on the older Scalextric track layouts. Electrically they consume less current and all have guides blades rather than pins. The key problem concerns the fixed front axle as this prevents many of the older obstacles from being used. As the front wheels traverse an obstacle they lift the contact braids away from the conductor rails on the track and the car stops. Obstacles that cannot be used with new Scalextric cars include:
  • Banked curves.
  • Hump backed bridges.
  • Bumpy or rocky track.
Additionally, because of the front axle the new Scalextric cars need a very flat surface on which to operate. Old warped, bent or out of shape track pieces may cause problems for the newer Scalextric cars.
Scalextric cars fitted with a Scalextric Digital chip can be used on analogue layouts.

General

On the whole there is very good compatibility between the old and new Scalextric cars and Scalextric track. Newer Scalextric cars can run well on older Scalextric layouts as long as the layout is flat and contains no sudden changes in height such as rocks or banked curves. Older cars may need some updates to run well on the newer track especially concerning grip. Scalextric cars with pin guides need to avoid layouts with any form of crossover or lane change method.

About the author:

Gary Harding has been working with Scalextric cars for over 35 years and now operates Scalextric Car Restorations in the UK. Scalextric Car Restorations is a Worldwide internet based business that offers for sale high quality Scalextric cars and Scalextric parts from the 1960s to the present day. All the restoration work is carried out to the highest standards with the highest quality parts available. Only the best cars are selected and the final result is a car that is genuinely like new.
Further help and advice relating to this article or Scalextric cars in general can be found at:
http://www.scalextric-car.co.uk

Re-manufactured: Neodymium magnet for the vintage Scalextric RX motor

New replacement Neodymium magnet suitable for the vintage Scalextric RX motor.
This new Neodymium magnet can be used on all the vintage Scalextric RX motors including the ‘Race Tuned’ versions. The picture above shows the Neodymium magnet fitted to the RX motor.
Scalextric RX motor magnet
Scalextric RX motor
Improved track performance with minimal effort. This magnet will give your RX motor more torque and more speed.
These Scalextric spares Neodymium Iron Boron magnets have a gauss level which is typically 2 – 4 times higher than standard Alnico magnets. They are nickel-plated for improved corrosion resistance and appearance.
Another great product from Scalextric Car Restorations

Rear wing and bumbers for a classic Scalextric C311 Ford Capri

These classic Scalextric C311 Ford Capri rear wings and bumpers are direct replacements for the original items.
Scalextric Ford Capri
These re-manufactured plastic rear wings and bumpers are direct replacements for the original Scalextric parts. Available in white they are suitable for the classic Scalextric C311 Ford Capri car.
They can also be fitted to the other Scalextric Ford Capri cars listed below.

Ref.
Description
Finish
C117 Ford Capri 3.0l Black
C300 Ford Capri 3.0l Chrome
C311 Ford Capri 3.0l White
C326 Ford Capri 3.0l Black
C379 Ford Capri 3.0l Blue
C2059 Ford Capri Black
C2060 Ford Capri Black
 Another great item form Scalextric Car Restorations

Tuesday 26 January 2016

How to buy used Scalextric cars and the problems you’ll encounter

Most used Scalextric cars are purchased through eBay and eBay has it’s own special problems. Here are the main things to look out for with an eBay purchase and some tips to help you.
Buying Scalextric cars on eBay can be a terrible minefield as there are many traders and home sellers who are not totally honest in what they do. We have seen many Scalextric cars purchased as eBay Scalextric items that are NOT what the buyer expected and definitely not as described.
Is this deliberate fraud or simply lack of experience in the Scalextric car on offer? Probably both, in varying measures. So what’s the answer? Simple, the phrase “buyer beware” still operates in the frontier land of eBay. As a buyer you must know what you want and what makes a good example of the Scalextric car you want. The buyer must know their stuff.
Scalextric E/4 Ferrari GT Berlinetta with lights
There are 2 generic types of eBay Scalextric cars; there’s new and there’s used. New Scalextric cars can have several things not right with them; the first is that they might not be new but used and simply cleaned up. The second is that the Scalextric cars may be stolen and not the property of the seller and therefore not yours once you’ve purchased them. The third is that the Scalextric cars may not be what you expected, for example many eBay Scalextric cars are removed from sets so do not come with a box.
Ebay Scalextric used cars are even worse. The best advice we can give for a used eBay Scalextric car is that the car will have a fault of some type and will need Scalextric spare parts to repair it. Your mission as the buyer is to find out what the fault is and decide whether or not you can fix it or live with it. Sellers of eBay Scalextric cars tend to lie by omission, so find out what is not described and ask lot’s of questions.
So, here are some basic rules as a buyer of Scalextric cars, especially if you are using eBay:
  • Find out as much about the car you want as possible
  • Find out the common problems
  • Find out what spares are available and at what price
  • Establish the faults and defects of any potential purchase
  • Use eBay feedback to find out more about the seller
  • Is this a trader or private seller?
  • Traders tend to bodge cars to sell at a higher price
  • Private sellers sometimes know nothing about the car for sale and cannot describe it properly or recognise simple errors
  • Look out for white mould on the car, usually on the inside as the outside will have been cleaned. Cars with this white mould growth must be rejected immediately and be considered a health risk
  • Brown discolouration on the pale coloured cars generally cannot be removed as it will propagate through the moulding – seek expert advice if unsure
There are many more pitfalls out there so contact us if you want to know more about the purchase of a specific Scalextric car.

About the author:

Gary Harding has been working with Scalextric cars for over 30 years and now operates Scalextric Car Restorations in the UK. Scalextric Car Restorations is a Worldwide internet based business that offers for sale high quality Scalextric cars and Scalextric parts from the 1960s to the present day. All the restoration work is carried out to the highest standards with the highest quality parts available. Only the best cars are selected and the final result is a car that is genuinely like new.
Further help and advice relating to this article or Scalextric cars in general can be found at:
http://www.scalextric-car.co.uk

Scalextric C64 Bentley mudguard set is remanufactured in plastic

Scalextric Car Restorations is pleased to announce that the mudguards used on the Scalextric Bentley 4.5 litre models has been remanufactured in both black and green plastic.  The mudguards on these Scalextric Bentley models are easily removed from the body and are therefore easily lost.  Also, they can be readily damaged if the cars are raced (and crashed) hard.
Scalextric C64 Bentley mudguard set
This plastic moulded mudguard set is a direct replacement for the original classic Scalextric parts fitted to the Scalextric Bentley 4.5 litre models.
These mudguards fit all the versions of the Bentley produced by Scalextric including the Power and Glory series.

Ref.
Description
C64 Bentley 4.5l (1929)
C242 Bentley 4.5l
C305 Bentley 4.5l Power and Glory
Another great product from Scalextric Car Restorations

Is this the end of Scalextric?

Scalextric (Hornby) have recently introduced the Scalextric Start range of sets, cars and accessories and we are frequently asked if this is a good starting point to start with collecting Scalextric. The alternative is the Scalextric Sport range of sets, cars and accessories. So which do you go for?  To keep costs down Scalextric have modelled their own range of cars, presumably to not pay any licence fees.  So what you get is not a model of a specific car but the representation of what a car might look like, how cheap can you get?
Scalextric car C3141 single seater
The answer is very simple when you learn a few facts about the Scalextric Start range. Firstly, the track isn’t compatible with the Scalextric Sport range and has very little in the way of interesting track pieces. Secondly, the cars are generic amorphous blobs and not specific models of known existing cars. Finally the Scalextric Start guide blade of the cars is very weak and very prone to failure and, you’ve guessed it, unique to the Scalextric Start range of cars.
Scalextric Start is rubbish and is definitely not a start to collecting Scalextric. If anything it is an end to collecting Scalextric.
The Scalextric Start range is better off named the Scalextric End range.
An article by Scalextric Car Restorations

Monday 25 January 2016

Minilite wheels and tyres for Scalextric cars

Your Scalextric slot cars can have a new look with these great looking new Minilite wheels fitted with new grippy tyres. No more slipping rear wheels with these new wheel hubs.
Scalextric Minilite wheels and tyres
These Scalextric Minilite wheels are unique to Scalextric Car Restorations. They have been developed to replace the many wheels fitted to the various cars listed below. They can also be fitted to many of the other cars in the Scalextric range, from the 1970s right through to the present day. They look absolutely stunning on the Scalextric C52 Ford Escort RS1600.
These Minilite wheels are new and are fitted with new tyres. The tyres are also available in our Scalextric tyres section. These wheels are available in black, gold, silver and white with either the narrow or wide 1990s tyres.
Another great product from Scalextric Car Restorations

10 reasons why your Scalextric car stops or hesitates on the track

In order for your Scalextric car to give the best lap times under race conditions the track and car must both be in the best of condition. It is common for a car to hesitate or stop on the track spoiling the usual enjoyment Scalextric car racing can give. Listed below is a simple fault finder that will quickly resolve your problem.
Old Scalextric Porsche
Do other cars pause, slow or hesitate at the same point on the track?
For a Scalextric car to give its best performance the track must be in good condition. Below are some common faults found in track layouts.
1.  Dirty or dusty track
It is common for Scalextric cars to drop a small amount of oil onto the track conductor rails as the car is used. This oil builds up over time and can hold onto any dust that may land on the track. Dirty and dusty track can be wiped clean with a cloth.
2.  Tarnished track rails
Over time the bright metal plating on the surface of the Scalextric track rails will oxidise resulting in a rough and high electrical resistance surface. The high resistance will reduce the performance of any Scalextric car while the rough surface will cause increased ware to the pick up braids. The track rails need to be cleaned with a track polishing pad to return the rails to a bright clean and smooth finish.
3.  Poor track rail connections
It is well known that in a medium to large track layout the joints between the individual track pieces can offer high electrical resistance causing a car to slow or hesitate at the far end of the layout. The solution is to electrically connect the track pieces together with a track power booster cable.
Does the car hesitate on left hand corners, right hand corners or the straights only?
It is clearly important that the electrical current flows from the track rails to the car’s motor with as little resistance as possible. Over time several faults can occur with Scalextric cars to reduce their track performance.
4.  Pick up braids
The car’s pick up braids need to be in good clean condition and both be in constant contact with the track rails. If the braids are worn or very dirty then they will need to be replaced with new braids, these are available as normal tin plate finish braids and pure copper braids.
5.  Poor wire connection to the pick up braids
The connection between the pick up braids and the wires are critical to the performance of any Scalextric car. Most of the cars from the 1970 through to the 1990s used little metal pins to connect the wires to the braids. These pick up pins must be present and clean to give the best connection.
6.  Motor connection wire broken
As the guide pivots over time it can cause the motor wire to fracture internally. The motor wire should be replaced if this is found to be the cause. It might be easier to replace the whole guide assembly with the wires already fitted.
Does the car sound normal but moves slowly or not at all?
This can be caused by a mechanical problem between the motor and getting the power down to the track.
7.  Broken motor pinion gear
One of the most common faults is that the motor pinion gear (the little white gear on the motor shaft) can split. This allows the gear to turn on the shaft. A new motor pinion gear is required to fix this problem.
8.  Damaged rear axle gear
It is common for the gear on the rear axle to have damaged teeth. This is especially true if the motor pinion gear is broken. A replacement rear axle gear is required to remedy this problem.
9.  Loose rear wheel
It is common for the rear wheels to become loose on the axle shaft. If this is the only problem then the wheels can be glued into position or alternatively replacement rear wheels can be fitted.
10.  Tyres with little grip
In order for your Scalextric car to give the best lap times under race conditions the car tyres will need to give their best performance. It is necessary to keep the tyres in good condition. Even the best replacement tyres will reduce in performance if not maintained. Replacement tyres are available for most Scalextric cars and are easy to find with our unique tyre finder.
There are many other possible faults especially with the earlier cars with the open frame motors. This is intended as a simple fault finding guide only. If the information above does not resolve the fault then contact us for further information.
This great maintenance guide is brought to you by Scalextric Car Restorations at:

How to service the RX motor in your Scalextric car

Maintain your Scalextric car’s RX motor with these simple hints and tips

Abstract

The earlier Scalextric cars produced in the 1960s were fitted with open frame motors the most common of which is known as the RX motor. This motor was also fitted to many of the Hornby locomotives of the period. This article shows how an RX motor can be serviced in a methodical way by considering the mechanical, electrical and magnetic aspects of the motor.
Scalextric RX motor

Introduction

The RX motor was fitted to most Scalextric cars from the 1960s. In order for your Scalextric car’s RX motor to give the best possible performance it has to be in the best possible health. Effectively giving the maximum torque for the electrical power available to it. For any electrical motor to give its best 3 key areas need to be considered; the mechanical condition of the motor, the electrical condition of the motor and the magnetic condition of the motor.

Mechanical

Mechanically the RX motor needs to be in the best condition possible to ensure that no energy is lost and the motor can transfer all of the generated torque to the rear axle. To do this several areas need to be reviewed:
  • Firstly check and ensure that all the parts are present and undamaged. All missing or damaged parts must must be replaced.
  • Check and ensure the motor armature spins freely with no rubbing or tight spots. This could be caused by missing or damaged bearings or a damaged motor housing.
  • Review the motor pinion gear and ensure all the gear teeth are in good condition. Replace the pinion gear if gear teeth damage is found.
  • Add a drop of oil to each of the bearing felt pads.
  • Ensure the brush spring sleeve is present and in good condition. Replace if necessary.

Electrical

There are many electrical connections and contacts used on the RX motor. Each of these must be in good condition to ensure the best performance of the motor. To do this several areas need to be reviewed:
  • Firstly check and ensure that the solder joint between the wire from the pick-up brush and the eyelet that fits over the brush spring sleeve is complete and sound. Replace or remake this joint if any of the wire strands are broken or not making contact.
  • Inspect the eyelet for any dirt or metal oxides that may have formed over the years. Clean the brush spring back to clean shiny metal where it contacts the motor brush.
  • Inspect the brush spring for any dirt or metal oxides that may have formed over the years. Clean the brush spring back to clean shiny metal where it contacts the motor brush and the screw that secures the magnet.
  • Inspect and clean the motor brushes removing any dirt, oil and carbon deposits. Ensure the carbon block is present and securely attached to the brass strip. Clean the motor brushes back to clean shiny metal where they contact the brush spring and eyelet.
  • Remove any dirt, oil and carbon deposits from between the commutator segments of the armature.
  • Remove any dirt, oil and carbon deposits from the commutator.
  • Check the three solder joints that secure the armature windings to the commutator, remake these joints if necessary.
  • The electrical connections for a car with an RX motor are:
    • Contact: Track braid to track rail
    • Contact: Braid contact to track braid
    • Solder joint: Wire to braid contact
    • Solder joint: Motor brush sleeve to wire
    • Contact: Motor brush to motor brush sleeve
    • Solder joint: Motor brush carbon block to motor brush
    • Contact: Commutator to motor brush carbon block
    • Solder joint: Armature wire to commutator
    • Solder joint: Armature wire to commutator
    • Contact: Commutator to motor brush carbon block
    • Solder joint: Motor brush carbon block to motor brush
    • Contact: Motor brush to brush spring
    • Contact: Brush spring brass bolt
    • Contact: Brass bolt to eyelet
    • Solder joint: Eyelet to wire
    • Solder joint: Wire to braid contact
    • Contact: Braid contact to track braid
    • Contact: Track braid to track rail

Magnetic

The magnetic field used by the RX motor is provided by a permanent magnet at the rear of the motor. The magnetic field reaches the outside of the armature by the use of steel plates that are also used as the housing for the motor. To ensure the magnetic circuit is maintained the RX motor uses various materials to ensure the magnetic field is not reduced.
  • Ensure the magnet is secured by the correct brass screw.
  • Ensure both the steel housing plates make good tight contact with the magnet.
  • Ensure the aluminum plate adjacent to the magnet is fitted correctly.
  • Ensure the brass plate at the commutator end of the motor is fitted correctly.

General

Through experience we have found that some RX motors still do not perform well even with all of these checks completed. This may be caused by a weak magnet or internally damaged armature windings. These faults are outside the scope of this article. There are many other possible faults with the earlier cars with the open frame motors. This is intended as a simple fault finding guide only. If the information above does not resolve the fault then contact us for further information.

About the author:

Gary Harding has been working with Scalextric cars for over 30 years and now operates Scalextric Car Restorations in the UK. Scalextric Car Restorations is a Worldwide internet based business that offers for sale high quality Scalextric cars and Scalextric parts from the 1960s to the present day. All the restoration work is carried out to the highest standards with the highest quality parts available. Only the best cars are selected and the final result is a car that is genuinely like new.
Further help and advice relating to this article or Scalextric cars in general can be found at:
http://www.scalextric-car.co.uk

Sunday 24 January 2016

Guide blade G15 for vintage Scalextric Spanish built cars

This Scalextric guide blade is a direct replacement for the vintage Scalextric Spanish built cars.
G15 Scalextric guide blade
These new Scalextric guides are direct replacements for those guide blades used on the vintage Scalextric Spanish built cars of the 1960s and 1970s. These guide blades are re-manufactured in white plastic and are sometimes referred to as G15.

Ref.
Description
Quantity
C32 Mercedes 250SL Race Tuned
1
C34 E Type Jaguar
1
C36 Honda GP
1
C37 BRM F1
1
C41 Ferrari GT 330
1
C43 McLaren M9A
1
C44 Mercedes Wankel C111
1
C46 Porsche 917K
1
C48 Tyrrell Ford
1
 Another great spare part from Scalextric Car Restorations

Scalextric track maintenance

In this article we are looking into Scalextric track and track maintenance. There are several areas where your Scalextric track can cause problems, these are:
  • Corroded or oxidised track rails
  • Bent or warped track pieces
  • Poor electrical connections
  • Dirty and dusty track
  • Compatibility between different track types
  • Building your own track layout
Corroded or oxidised track rails
Polishing pad for Scalextric track
Over time and especially if your Scalextric track is stored in a damp environment, the steel rails of your Scalextric track can become discoloured and slightly rough as the electroplated surface corrodes. This slows down your Scalextric cars and wears out the Scalextric car braids more quickly.
To prevent this simply polish the Scalextric track rails back to a smooth clean surface with the track polishing pad. This will do the job more quickly and effectively than any other method we know of.
Bent or warped track pieces
Scalextric track has a tendency to bend or warp over time. This may have many causes among which are people stepping on the track laid on the floor and perhaps the way that the classic track clips together doesn’t help.
Scalextric track C160 standard straight
Warped track works well enough but can give your Scalextric cars a very bumpy ride, especially down the long straight. Also, the newer Scalextric cars will struggle as they are far more likely to ground out on a bumpy Scalextric track layout.
The answer is to shape the Scalextric track pieces back to level. To do this simply reverse the bend in the track a little at a time and a bend at a time until the track is visibly flat again.
The most common problem then is that the vertical sides of the steel track rail bend outwards and block the slot in the track. This is remedied by pushing the bulge back out of the way with a flat blade screwdriver. There you have it, flat, level Scalextric track that works for new Scalextric cars as well as your older Scalextric cars.
Poor electrical connections
An odd phenomenon that can occur with a Scalextric track layout is that over time part of the track layout looses power. The Scalextric cars run great near to the track power base or where the power is connected to the track but slow down away from the power connection point.
This effect can happen several weeks or even several months after a circuit has been constructed and not usually right away. We are not too sure of the exact mechanism that causes this but we know it’s the joints between the track pieces that introduce a high resistance to electrical current.
There are 2 readily used fixes for this problem with Scalextric tracks; one is to regularly take up the track and relay it with the track pieces in different locations, strange but true. The second is to run a Scalextric track power booster cable around the track and make connections to the track every couple of meters or so.
Scalextric track power booster cable
If your Scalextric track layout is permanent then you’ll be best advised to make an electrical connection to every track piece with the Scalextric track power booster cable. The best type of connection is a solder joint.
Dirty and dusty track
The only form of grip for a Scalextric car is between the 2 rear tyres and the track surface. Grip provides the acceleration force, deceleration force and the cornering force too. Physics tells us that the amount of friction is proportional to the amount of force pushing the surfaces together and the friction between those surfaces.
Force = Friction x Normal force
To give the most grip the track surface has to be as clean as possible. So, how do you keep your track dust free? The simplest way is to wipe your Scalextric track over with a damp (NOT wet) cloth and ensure the track is dry before you go racing. This will remove the dust and debris and give you the best possible grip from your Scalextric track.
Compatibility between different track types
Over the years there have been several different types of Scalextric track systems used. The earliest is the rubber track used in the very early 1960s. This changed to the plastic track with the round clips which remained in production until the early 2000s and is still very common today.
Currently there is the modern Sport track with it’s straight clips and the Start track. All four types of track are NOT compatible with each other. The most common types are the current Sport track and the classic track with the round clips. There is a Scalextric converter track piece available to join these two track systems together.
C8222 converter track Sport to Classic
Building your own track layout
Putting together lots of Scalextric track pieces is a good way to build a temporary or a semi permanent track layout. The choice of interesting Scalextric track pieces is OK especially with some of the digital options.
For a fully permanent layout the limitations of using Scalextric track pieces can be done away with by making your own slot layout. There are only two things you need, the slot and the conductors. After that, you can design what ever shape circuit you like.
The slot can be cut into the base board using a router with a suitable bit and for the conductors you can use self adhesive copper tape. The copper tape is available on rolls with plenty of length. The board can be painted to form the track, run off areas, add height, infield and all sorts of props to give your layout realism.
Finally, the best benefit of this type of layout – the magnatraction magnet doesn’t work!!
Another great piece of advice from Scalextric Car Restorations

Broken Scalextric Digital

It is without doubt that Scalextric Digital is a great innovation.  Controlling your Scalextric cars individually via a digital data stream is a great idea allowing multiple cars on one slot and having the ability to change lanes.  Simply fantastic.
However, Hornby (Scalextric), as is their style, have almost completely failed to deliver the dream.  So, what’s the problem, I hear you say.  Well, where to start? Let’s start with the track.  The powerbase has little or no short circuit protection, which means if the track rails are shorted out with a small piece of metal then the controller will fail, permanently.  Time to buy a new one.
Then, there’s the lane change pieces of track.  These use small electromagnets known as solenoids to move the points to allow the cars to change lane.  These are very poorly produced resulting in the points frequently sticking and stopping the cars from changing lanes.  If you are going to have active pieces of track then at least make sure it all works properly.  Does anybody test anything at Hornby?
Now we consider the cars, or actually, the digital chip that fits inside the cars.  The biggest mistake of all made by Hornby is this.  There were FOUR version of the chip.  What barking mad idiot thought that was the right thing to do and how did the Hornby board of directors allow that to happen.  Plain madness.  To make things worse the TWO saloon versions of the chip have proved very unreliable whereas the smaller single seater versions have proved quite good.
Scalextric Digital chip
Additionally, the output of the chip is not protected so, again, a short circuit within the car will cause the chip to fail, permanently.  Time to buy a new chip.
With all this going on is Scalextric Digital worth investing in?  We’re simply not sure.  All we know is, our customers who have Scalextric Digital really enjoy it even with all the associated risks and problems.  Your choice really.
Brought to you by Scalextric Car Restorations.

Saturday 23 January 2016

Announcing the remanufacture of flag set for Scalextric Marshal Aston Martin E5

Scalextric Car Restorations is proud to announce the remanufacture of the flag set for Scalextric Marshal Aston Martin E5.  The flags fit into small hole in the bumpers of the Scalextric E5 Marshal car, one in the front bumper and one in the rear bumper.  Like any removeable part of any toy these flags are very often missing from Scalextric E5 models.
Scalextric Aston Martin E5 flags
Scalextric Car Restorations has remanufactured these rare and fragile flags in white plastic just like the originals.
Another great solution from Scalextric Car Restorations

Scalextric Start or Scalextric Sport

Scalextric (Hornby) have recently introduced the Scalextric Start range of sets, cars and accessories and we are frequently asked if this is a good starting point to start with collecting Scalextric.  The alternative is the Scalextric Sport range of sets, cars and accessories.  So which do you go for.
The answer is very simple when you learn a few facts about the Scalextric Start range.  Firstly, the track isn’t compatible with the Scalextric Sport range and has very little in the way of interesting track pieces.  Secondly, the cars are generic amorphous blobs and not specific models of known existing cars.  Finally the guide blade of the cars is very weak and very prone to failure and, you’ve guessed it, unique to the Scalextric Start range of cars.
Scalextric Start car
Which ever idiot in Hornby thought that the Scalextric Start range would be a brilliant product should be taken out and shot.  The other idiots that followed them should also be taken out and shot.  Scalextric Start is rubbish and is definitely not a start to collecting Scalextric.  If anything it is an end to collecting Scalextric.
The Scalextric Start range is better off named the Scalextric End range.
Scalextric should stick to what they are good at and stop investing in stupid ideas.
A rant front Scalextric Car Restorations.

Scalextric Digital conversion of C126 Lotus 77

Scalextric Digital conversion of C126 Lotus 77

Original C126 Lotus 77
This Scalextric C126 Lotus 77 model was in very good working order and the owner wanted it brought up to date. Digital conversion, new Mabuchi motor, high grip tyres and a Neodymium magnet. These upgrades will give this car a new lease of life and more pleasure to the owner. Below is how we carried out the digital conversion and the other upgrades.
With the body removed the original Johnson 111 motor can be seen along with the simple wiring
These cars form the early 1970s were not that complicated.
Lotus 77 with the body removed
Lotus 77 chassis moulding
This is where we started. A completely bear chassis moulding. Now we can build the desired car.
Starting to build up the chassis with the new Mabuchi motor. Note the 2 adaptor pieces, one at each end of the motor. This gives the Mabuchi motor the same form factor as the Johnson 111 motor.
The adaptor at the rear of the motor has been shaped to mount the digital chip.
The 3mm hole has been drilled for the LED.
Lotus 77 with the Mabuchi motor
Lotus 77 with LED fitted
The lane changing LED is glued into position. We are using the C7005 In-Car Microprocessor manufactured by Scalextric.
The C7005 chip is for use with Formula 1 cars as it’s smaller than the C7006 which is used for saloon cars.
The C7005 In-Car Microprocessor has been fitted into position and secured with adhesive to stop it moving around.
The LED wires are tucked in under the digital chip.
Lotus 77 with chip fitted
Lotus 77 with motor wires fitted
The wires that go to the motor from the C7005 In-Car Microprocessor are a little too short with the digital chip fitted where it is.
We added new wire to the motor to extend the original wires.
The wires to the motor were tailored in length, soldered together and protected with a piece of insulation tape.
A length of tape is also added to the digital chip to protect it from damage.
Lotus 77 motor wires connected
Lotus 77 guide wires pinned
The original guide will be used so the wires from the digital chip are trimmed and terminated with the correct 1.95mm guide pins.
The guide pins were pushed into the guide moulding and the guide is refitted to the chassis.
The wires to the digital chip were looped to ensure there’s no stress on the digital chip as the guide rotates.
Lotus 77 with guide fitted
Lotus 77 axles refitted
The original axles were fitted with new high grip tyres and then they were refitted to the chassis.
At this stage a D.C. functional test is carried out to confirm the electrical integrity of the digital chip installation. The C126 Lotus 77 model cannot be run on the track until the body is fitted.
The body and engine mouldings are fitted and the Neodymium magnet was fitted between the motor and the rear axle on the underside of the chassis. This gives the car lots of grip for acceleration and for cornering.
The magnet is secured with a drop of adhesive.
Lotus 77 with magnet fitted
Lotus 77 tested
The car was tested on our Digital Test track. Everything worked as expected including the lane change LED. We also assessed the new motor, tyre grip and the effect of the Neodymium magnatraction magnet.
Each digitally converted car gets a thorough workout to ensure the car is as good as it can be.
With the rear wing fitted this car is complete and ready to be returned to it’s owner. The car has had a new Mabuchi motor, new C7005 In-Car Microprocessor, new high grip superslix tyres and a Neodymium magnet fitted.
This car is now more like a modern Scalextric car and nothing like cars from the period.
Lotus 77